![]() Many of the Mustangs made later in the model year had blocks that were compatible with the roller cam but with a flat tappet cam. None of the CFI engines had roller cams in them from the factory regardless of V6 or V8 or car model engine was installed in. If they never had a roller cam, why are they offered as direct replacements? Good luck with it and let us know how it's going. If not specific to what you're doing or want to do, feel free to ask away. I think my adventure explains all that's needed in detail, and it has and is all working great nearly 2 years later now. Whichever carburetor you get, yes, hookup for the AOD's cable is necessary. have a look at my thread, that lists a low pressure pump part number that is fairly easily put into the hanger in the tank, and a simple trouble free way of also utilizing the car's return line for pressure regulation as well as nice cool fuel always being delivered to the carburetor. As for fuel pressure, 5-6psi is what's needed, and that's not, IMHO, safely done with the high pressure pump. Get a Duraspark II distributor from 1985 or prior (as far back as approximately 1975 will work), and as mentioned above, if you've got a roller cam, get an '85 distributor with steel gear or get a steel gear onto an older distributor in place of it's cast iron gear. I'm not running a 5.0, but that matters not, as it's simply a matter of fueling and ignition, and you could plop a 2 barrel onto that intake manifold if you wanted to. An easy and inexpensive step-by-step (using the original TFI ignition coil) on how to get rid of all that garbage begins with post #63 in my build thread, in the red link below in my signature. ![]() You will be pleasantly surprised at all the dead-nuts reliability, efficiency, and performance that you have been missing. The people there are friendly and helpfull.First of all, congratulations on your decision. You'll also need to completely flush the system because R134a is not compatible with the old mineral based oil.įor more advice on A/C systems check out the forum on. The stock condensor won't cool down the system enough with R134a. If you must convert to R134a then you'll need to change compressors and switch to a parallel flow condensor. I had my 64 Cnvt recharged last spring for $240. ![]() Even here in California there are plenty of A/C shops that have it for a reasonable price. Classic Auto Air cuts the old ones open and replaces the desiccant then welds them back together. Anytime the system is open and exposed to outside air you should replace the receiver/dryer. You'll need some new cork tape to wrap the expansion valve in. It is not possible to test the replacement beforehand. Try to find a quality source for the expansion valve. The evaporator can only be flushed when the expansion value is removed. You'll need to buy a flush kit to do this (~$40 at NAPA). While you have the dash out you should replace the expansion valve and flush the evaporator. They have things like quality brass couplings near the site glass that are prone to leak. ![]() I also recommend you talk to Classic Auto Air in Texas/Florida. I did the R134 conversion and specified that the original R12 fittings be left in place on the compressor for show, adding R134 fittings whenever I need to add freon to the system. When I pulled it apart in 2002 I went through the whole thing over the course of a season, taking apart every thing I could to replace foam rubber on doors, seals, fabricating a rubber boot between the dash outlet and the evaporator out of sheet rubber, etc., then reassembling. My A/C system was inoperable when I got my car in 1981. ![]() And say away from those so-called drop-in replacement refrigerants, especially those which have propane in them. R-12 is doomed to obsolescence, and while it may cool better than R-134 you will pay out the hind end for it as supplies dwindle to nothing. Go with safe, modern refrigerants and do the conversions necessary to have compatible hoses, expansion valve, etc. Don't rush the job to get things back together. Send A/C-specific parts to a place like Classic Auto Air in FL that specialize in reconditioning old systems. Allow yourself plenty of time to pull everything apart, restore/refinish and reassemble. Study the diagrams and instructions printed in the Electrical Assembly Manual to understand how everything went together originally, especially vacuum hoses and wiring.ģ. Get familiar with a local rubber goods supplier - they may have some sheet rubber and self-adhesive foam rubber sheets you can cut up for door gaskets, padding, etc.Ģ. ![]()
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